Which type of breaking wave is characterized by a gradual loss of energy and a longer wave height?

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The spilling wave type is characterized by a gradual loss of energy as it moves toward the shore, resulting in a longer wave height. This occurs because spilling waves break slowly and gently, allowing for the energy to dissipate gradually as the crest spills over the face of the wave.

Spilling waves typically form on gentle slopes, and their breaking action is less violent compared to other types of waves. The nature of the break allows for a longer, more uniform wave height, which is visually distinguishable from the sudden and dramatic breaks of plunging or surging waves. While surging waves tend to break at the shoreline without much of a forward motion, and plunging waves exhibit a steep, abrupt breaking, spilling waves maintain a more elongated form as they lose energy gradually. This characteristic makes them generally safer for swimmers and recreational users of the ocean, as they provide a more forgiving entry point into the surf.

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